Palermo is a city of decay and of splendour and, provided you can handle its raw energy, deranged driving and chaos, has plenty of appeal. Unlike Florence or Rome, many of the city’s treasures are hidden, rather than scrubbed up for endless streams of tourists. Be prepared to explore: this giant treasure-trove of palaces, castles and churches has a unique architectural fusion of Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Renaissance and baroque gems. Palermitans themselves have inherited the intriguing looks and social rituals of their multicultural past. Life here is full on: a very public, warm-hearted and noisy affair.
Photo: jungle travel [OS]
We would like to draw your attention to one of Macedonia's greatest truths, the truth of Ohrid, an eternal town, a magical hill whose primordial pulsation links ancient and modern times forewer because: Ohrid has been a living town for two thousand and four hundred years. It is the legitimate descendant of the shining Lychnidos, a town whose achievements were woven into the tapestry of a powerful ancient civilization; the town of Ohrid is indeed the cultural history of the Republic of Macedonia in miniature. As an Episcopal centre in ancient times, and likewise through the widely renowned Ohrid archibishopic, through the centuries the town has represented the entire ecclesiastical history of Macedonia. It bears the name "The Balkan Jerusalem". Through the activity of St. Clement of Ohrid, the first pan-Slavonic university on Europe was situated here. Ohrid was the most important official capital of the first Slav Macedonian State, of Samuel's empire. And Ohrid was the centre of Macedonia's nineteenth century revival. Today Ohrid is a cultural, spiritual and tourist centre. And finally, as the crowning glory of its values, Ohrid and Lake Ohrid have been named a world cultural and natural heritage listed city under the protection of UNESCO since 1980.
OHRID: Things to do - To visit
How to Get There
By Plane
International airports in Skopje and Ohrid connect Macedonia with several major European cities. Close regional airports in Belgrade, Sofia and Thessaloniki can also be used, as they are all within a few hours’ drive from Macedonia
By Train
An international train, operating twice daily, connects Ljubljana, Slovenia and Thessaloniki, Greece by way of Macedonia. Stops include Tabanovce (the Macedonia-Serbia border crossing point), Kumanovo, Skopje, Veles, Gradsko, Negotino, Demir Kapija, and Gevgelija (Greek border crossing point), as well as a few small villages. An east-west railway to connect Bulgaria with Macedonia is at present under construction
By Car
The international highway E-75 runs north-south from Serbia to Greece, bisecting Macedonia. This is the most common route for overland tourists to take for entering Macedonia. There are also good roads connecting the country with Bulgaria to the east and Albania to the west
Photo: Vladica S. [OC]
There’s no reason to hibernate this winter when there are new beaches, slopes, sports, and festivals to discover. This year’s list of best winter trips is a global collection of 15 editor-recommended destinations. Find the one that inspires you and start packing. (Maryellen Kennedy Duckett).
Paris, France
Photograph by Thierry Chesnot, Corbis
Paris is at its most Parisian in winter. Without the crowds, there’s space to linger over a morning café crème and croissant at Le Bar du Marché and wander through the Louvre. The low tourist season means some lower rates too. Several museums and monuments offer free admission on first Sundays (November-March), and the first of the biannual Soldes (state-mandated, six-week sales) begins on January 8. The nationwide discounts (up to 50 percent or more in every store) are designed to make room for the upcoming season’s wares. The sales return in June, but by then, so will the crowds.
When to Go: December-March; Les Soldes, January 8-February 11; several Christmas markets (including Champs-Elysées, Saint Germain des Prés, and Montmarte) remain open through January 5 or 6.
How to Get Around: Buy a Paris Visite card online for unlimited multiday bus, metro, tramway, and RER (commuter rail) travel in either zones 1-3 (the city and close suburbs) or zones 1-5 (which includes both CDG/Orly and Versailles airports).
Where to Stay: November to February is low season, so it’s easier to find a room at the intimate Hotel Relais-Saint Germain. Each of the 22 rooms is named and styled after a different author connected with Paris, such as Balzac, Hemingway, Joyce, and Proust. The hotel, comprising side-by-side townhouses, is a short walk from the Louvre and a block from the Odeon metro station, particularly helpful when it’s raining or cold outside.
What to Eat or Drink: Les Papilles takes the stress (and guesswork) out of ordering in French. The retour du marche (seasonal market menu) is set daily, so make a reservation and arrive ready for whatever chef Bertrand is preparing (like potato leek soup, poached cod, and blue cheese and dates). The venue (a delightful combination of bistro, wine shop, and grocery) and price (about $42 for starter, main course, cheese, and dessert) add to the comfort level.
What to Read or Watch Before You Go: Woody Allen’s romantic comedy Midnight in Paris (2011) was filmed entirely in the city.
What to Buy: Scoring the best Soldes bargains requires planning and patience. Arrive with a short wish list of Parisian luxury items (Longchamp tote, Repetto flats, Hermès jacket), identify a few shops that carry what you’re hunting for, and be willing to wait—but not too long. Prices and inventory get lower with each passing week, so if the item you want is in short supply, you may want to shop early and pay a bit more.
Cultural Tip: Indoor spaces (restaurants, shops, cafés) tend to be smaller and more intimate in Paris than in the U.S. Instead of complaining about the tight quarters, embrace the coziness and esprit de corps—and remember to use your “inside” voice.
Helpful Links: Paris Tourist Office and France Guide
Fun Fact: Paolo Veronese’s wall-sized "Wedding Feast at Cana" (1563) is the largest painting on exhibit at the Louvre, yet it’s not the biggest attraction in the room where it’s displayed. That distinction goes to a much smaller portrait, the "Mona Lisa," which hangs on the wall opposite Veronese’s masterpiece.
Phu Quoc (Vietnam)
Photograph by Michael S. Lewis/National Geographic Creative
Some of Vietnam’s best beaches are on heart-shaped Phu Quoc island, making them closer to Cambodia than the Vietnamese mainland. Located in the Gulf of Thailand just off the Cambodian coast, Phu Quoc once housed the so-called “coconut tree prison” (now a museum), where Vietcong prisoners of war were held through 1973. What’s bringing international travelers and, so far, restrained development to Phu Quoc today are its warm, turquoise waters; secluded, deep sand beaches; and lush, mountainous interior (protected as a national park).
When to Go: December-March is dry season, with average daytime temperatures between 77° and 82°F.
How to Get Around: The new (2012) Phu Quoc International Airport is located near the midpoint of the island’s western coast in Duong Dong, the largest town. Most resorts are located south of the airport on Long Beach, and provide airport transfers to their guests. The most convenient way to travel around the island is by motorbike taxi or (with extreme caution) by motorbike.
Where to Stay: All 70 rooms and suites at the upscale, French Colonial-style La Veranda Resort are steps from Long Beach and have either a private balcony or terrace. The lush, tropical foliage can partially obstruct water views, so choose a second floor “sea view” room or suite facing the pool.
Where to Eat: Pull up a plastic chair and sit under the stars at the bustling Dinh Cau Night Market to try whatever local fishermen hauled in that day (sea urchin, prawns, clams, squid, scallops, sardines). Held most evenings near Cau Temple in Duong Dong, the market has dozens of stalls and is a good place to shop for souvenirs (although most items aren’t produced locally).
What to Read Before You Go: Vietnam: A Traveler’s Literary Companion (Whereabouts Press, 1996) features 17 stories by contemporary authors living in Vietnam and abroad.
Helpful Links: Vietnam Tourism and Discover Phu Quoc
Fun Fact: Phu Quoc is Vietnam’s nuoc mam (fish sauce) capital. The island’s signature (and powerfully pungent) sweet-sour Phu Quoc sauce is the essential Vietnamese condiment and, in 2013, became the country’s first product granted European Union Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status.
Whitefish Winter Carnival World Ski Joring Championships, Whitefish, Montana
Photograph by Kat Gebauer/Green Kat Photography
The Big Sky brand of equestrian skijoring (derived from the Norwegian snörekjöring or “driving with ropes”) is wild, western, and guaranteed to get the adrenaline pumping. At the Whitefish Winter Carnival World Ski Joring Championships, horse (or mule) and rider teams pull daredevil skiers on high-flying runs around a snowy, 800-foot-long horseshoe-shaped course. Slalom gates, curves, and jumps increase the thrills—and the potential for spectacular spills.
When to Go: The World Ski Joring Championship races are held January 25-26 (registration events are January 24), two weekends before the main Whitefish Winter Carnival, February 7-9.
How to Get Around: Whitefish is in northwestern Montana, 60 miles south of the Canadian border. Flights arrive at Glacier Park International Airport, located 11 miles southeast of Whitefish. Amtrak’s Empire Builder arrives twice daily at the Whitefish Depot. Rental cars are available at both locations. The skijoring competition is held at the Whitefish Municipal Airport, one mile east of town. December 7 to April 6, a free SNOW (Shuttle Network of Whitefish) bus connects downtown Whitefish to the Whitefish Mountain Resort and several locations in between.
Where to Stay: Kandahar Lodge at Whitefish Mountain Resort is a comfortably elegant alpine inn located on the free SNOW route, seven miles from Whitefish. The 50 rooms and suites, including six lofts with full kitchens, are styled with warm cedar-and-pine architectural details. Spend the day on the slopes, then ski back to the lodge to sip hot cider in front of the wood-burning, river-rock fireplace.
Where to Eat or Drink: You can’t get more local than the Great Northern Bar and Grill, where 12 kinds of burgers top the menu, dozens of signs from defunct Whitefish businesses line the walls, and live music is featured four to five nights a week. At Pescado Blanco in the Railway District, chef David Lewis specializes in fresh, mountain-Mexican fusion fare, like bison enchiladas and elk chorizo.
What to Buy: Visit the Montana Coffee Traders on Highway 93 for a roasting facility tour (Monday-Friday at 10 a.m.) before buying a bag of their whole beans or ground coffee. Locally inspired flavors include Huckleberry and Flathead Cherry, or choose a signature blend like Montana, Glacier, or Grizzly.
What to Read Before You Go: The short stories and novellas in Norman Maclean’s A River Runs Through It and Other Stories are set in western Montana.
Helpful Links: Explore Whitefish and Whitefish Ski Joring
Fun Fact: Equestrian skijoring races have been held in St. Moritz since the early 1900s. When the Swiss resort town hosted the 1928 Winter Olympics, skijoring was included as a demonstration sport.
See more... Where is Best Winter Trips 2014? (Part 2)
London in particular is a great place for exploring a number of mind broadening and intriguing exhibitions, including photography exhibits. Whether this is something that interests you or not these are always worth a visit for some calm and reflection after being caught up amidst the bustle of the city. To give some guidance to which are currently the most impressive of photography exhibitions, here is a list of five of the best you can catch at the moment.
Exhibit: Welcome to Iraq. Jamal Penjweny, Saddam is Here (Photo a courtesy of RUYA Foundation)
1. Harry Callahan
From now until the 31st of May 2014 is an exhibition of American photography legend, Harry Callahan’s works at the Tate Modern. He is particularly well known for his post-war photography and beautiful ability to picture the emotional presence of environments and unidentifiable shapes. This exhibition captures the essence of lonesome American landscapes, solitary figures and the multiple exposures that are iconic of Callahan’s work, with examples that span his extensive career and provide a hauntingly fascinating curation of images.
2. Bailey’s Stardust
David Bailey is one of the most influential and best known British photographers in the world. His works tend to focus on portraiture, portraying an array of people in a unique light. Bailey’s Stardust exhibition showcases over 250 iconic pieces from his career, emphasizing the span of his photographic subjects as they range from actors and musicians to designers and strangers he has met whilst traveling. Whether the faces in the pictures are recognizable or not, each proves how emotionally stimulating his photographs are, prompting a connection with the frozen faces that stare back at those viewing. The exhibition is on at the National Portrait Gallery from now until June the 1st 2014.
3. The Sixties
The 60‘s is an era that still to this day fascinates people with its iconic atmosphere and innovative pop culture. This is why the latest exhibition to be held within the unique Tower Bridge West Walkway, which is 42 meters above the Thames, is so brilliant to visit. The exhibition is aptly entitled, The Sixties and is a collection of images of people, places, events, and more that took place in the decade, together offering an exciting and varied perspective of what made it such a charismatic period. Famous faces include Twiggy, Elizabeth Taylor and Michael Caine. The exhibition will run until the 1st of June 2014 and is a must for any flower power fanatics!
The Sixties Exhibition at Tower Bridge-
4. Welcome to Iraq
One of the greatest things about photography is its ability to change the way people perceive certain things, people, or places. This is very relevant to the Welcome to Iraq exhibition at The South London Gallery, which consists of a collection of photographs alongside other types of media from various artists that portrays iraq in a unique and personal way. It not only shows the country from a different perspective to that we are used to from the news, but also shows its creativity. The exhibition is on currently, and will run until the 1st of June 2014.
5. The Deutsche Borse Photography Prize
The Deitsche Borse Photography Prize was first established in 1996 and is one of the biggest accolades for photographers, celebrating the best in the medium along with offering a payout of £30,000 to the winner. The Photographer’s Gallery is hosting an exhibition tour for the 2014 prize, in which visitors can take a look at the contenders for free. The images are all impacting in unique ways, and cover a range of subjects. This will run until the 23rd of June 2014 and offers a varied and insightful experience for those interested in the art of photography.
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Montevideo is a peculiar little place, more than happy to reward travellers who are willing to forsake a day or two in its big cousin Buenos Aires to explore the Uruguayan capital.
An aerial view of Montevideo, Uruguay. (Photo: M. Hintsa via Flickr)
We arrived at the Buquebus ferry terminal on a Saturday evening after an entirely worry-free glide across the water from Argentina, to be greeted by the chaos of a typical South American taxi queue. Eventually we were piloted to what seemed certain doom by a distant cousin of Fernando Alonso, careering along the coast road past drinkers, fishermen, Rambla ramblers and – oh thank you for being on the opposite carriageway – a Herbie-style Beetle parked in the fast lane.
We did however survive to reach our hotel in the barrio of Pocitos, the most frequently recommended area of Montevideo for tourists to stay. It’s easy to see why Pocitos is so often recommended; it’s a pleasant, peaceful suburban neighbourhood with a European feel, reminiscent of a small Mediterranean town.
From our well-equipped room at the Ermitage hotel on we set out to find food, having spied a nearby restaurant named La Otra. The walk of three blocks was easily navigated thanks to Montevideo’s grid system, and the resulting meal was magnificent. Unlike many chefs in Argentina, Uruguayans make a serious attempt to flavour their food, and a fine rib-eye steak was washed down with an enormous bottle of the local beer. The waiter regarded me wide-eyed and actually used the word ‘stupido’ when it became clear all the beer was for me, to which I put on my finest Englishman abroad nod-and-grin and set about drowning the memory of that frightening taxi.
La Otra is a classic parrilla – a style of South American grill – on a street named Tomas Diago in Pocitos. It forms one half of a pair of duelling parrillas, up against Tintos Y Rubias a block away on Pedro F Berro. As you can tell, here they like to name their streets after famous former residents of Montevideo.
We couldn’t not give Tintos Y Rubias a go on our second night. It had a fiery open grill that was enjogreat to watch while washing down another fine steak with a drop of Syrah, a lesser-known variety of red wine that works quite perfectly on this continent. But a competition needs a winner, and between our two parrillas La Otra came out on top, if only just.
Pocitos also includes the ‘seafront’, in fact a bank of the Rio de la Plata (the Atlantic is generally considered to begin further out to the east). Overlooking the river are some of the most impressive, or at any rate plush, buildings in Montevideo, which form a stark contrast with many of the older real estate you’ll find across most of the rest of the city. The beach at Pocitos is meant to be a glorious hive of life throughout the warmer months.
Pocitos Beach. (Photo: Pablo Flores via Flickr)
Easter reflection in Montevideo
Despite the 20 metre-high cross we found at the junction of three main streets in the Tres Cruses district, Easter Sunday was more a time for reflection in Montevideo, rather than a raucous celebration of Christianity as in other parts of South America. As we ambled around the city it became clear that this lapsed nation – left-wing government, legalised same-sex marriage, legalised abortion, legalised cannabis – use Easter Sunday as an excuse to have a well-earned break from the weekly hustle and bustle of the city.
Pavements carried just a few pedestrians, and cars appeared but sporadically. The lovely green space of Parque Batlle, nicknamed ‘the lungs of Montevideo’ (and roughly pronounced bah-shay) was slightly marred by the mess left over from the previous night’s Paul McCartney concert in the nearby national, but few would begrudge the city’s army of cleaners a day off in this laid-back Latin capital.
The stadium itself is an important monument in the story of football having held the first ever World Cup final, won by the hosts themselves in 1930, and its fairly ramshackle nature fitted in with the architecture we found elsewhere. Away from Pocitos, great portions of the city are quite bedraggled, with new developments fitting in beside the slow decaying colonial strongholds Montevideo is based upon. A brand new house will sit between two entirely differently designed, coloured but run-down buildings, somehow ageing the newer block as well. It’s a very characterful city in that regard, and though some may argue it could do with a lick of paint it’s hard not to imagine that may detract from the way past and present cohabit pleasantly here.
The main district of Montevideo that tourists make a beeline for is Ciudad Vieja, the old town. With its narrow streets and buildings even more weathered than elsewhere, it’s the most South American-feeling part of either this city or the Argentine capital. You can see deep into Montevideo’s past in the upper facades of each building, though at street level the old town has been populated by fast food joints and clothes shops – quite surprising given Ciudad Vieja is immediately to the west of Avenida 18 de Julio, the city’s principal shopping boulevard.
There are a number of pleasant squares to relax and watch the occasional Uruguayan pass by along Avenida 18 de Julio and into the old town. These include Plaza de Cagancha, Plaza Zabala and Plaza Constitucion, complete with finely decorated fountain, beautiful with autumn leaves falling from the trees.
Plaza Zabala. (Photo: A. Welch via Flickr)
The largest square is the Plaza Independencia, containing the impressive mausoleum of José Gervasio Artigas, ‘the father of Uruguayan nationhood’ who played a vital role in the creation of Uruguay as an independent country in the 1820s. Here you will also find the beautiful Teatro Solis, Uruguay’s oldest theatre, and the Palacio Estévez and Torre Ejecutiva government buildings.
Staying safe in Montevideo
With political power in our minds following our stroll around Plaza Independencia we decided to head up towards the Uruguayan Parliament building. Having missed our intended turn-off we figured it couldn’t hurt to cut through a couple of backs streets, given Uruguay is regularly named as one of the safest countries in Latin America. But on a day with fewer pedestrians around than usual, it can make you a little ill-at-ease to walk around an unfamiliar city far from home, off the main drag.
At one point we peered down a road to the right and thought ‘No way would we walk down there’ before turning the corner onto a road that was even more unwelcoming. As with any big city it’s wise to use common sense, and we immediately turned back to take the long way round.
Finally we made it to the Parliament building, to the north in the barrio of Aguada. And what a beauty it is, a truly epic example of a seat of government – a huge, grand building sitting proudly alone and uncluttered by other buildings nearby. It arguably belongs in a larger city like Buenos Aires, where the equivalent is limp by comparison. Take this building and the many statues and monuments scattered about Montevideo and you have the makings of a first-class city, fully deserving of the praise of its many fans.
Many buildings and most shops were closed on Sunday as expected, though one that was certainly open for business was the Cathedral, on the edge of Plaza Constitucion. From the outside Uruguay’s Catholic headquarters are architecturally unspectacular, but its interior is filled with icons of Uruguayan religious history, dating back to the building’s foundation by Spanish colonialists in the mid-18th century.
Talking of things closed at weekends, a note for anyone not familiar with the way banking works in a country like Uruguay. If you’re looking around for an ATM on the street, as you’d find in an average European or North American city, you won’t find any. The ATMs live indoors, often behind a door you’ll need the relevant bank card to enter, but there are ATMs open even on days like Easter Sunday, if you can find them. If in doubt, ask in the extremely helpful tourist information office at the corner of 18 de Julio and Ejido.
Biking and booming at Plaza de Cagancha
Not all Montevideo’s residents spent the day with their feet up – some feet were going round and round. At Plaza de Cagancha we found a couple of hundred people crowded around a handful of men in lycra, which turned out to involve the 100th anniversary of the Uruguayan Cycling Federation. This celebration included an exceptional set of drummers, edging very slowly down the street to an insistent beat as loudhailers boomed out indecipherable shouts from those running the event.
Crowds in unfamiliar places can be intimidating, but this crowd of Uruguayans was utterly non-threatening. Any sense of danger can be, and often is, a figment of the imagination in a city like Montevideo, though it’s important to note almost all articles on the city recommend tourists stay clear of the area around the port, just north of the old town (though the Buquebus port itself is fine).
One interesting quirk of Uruguayan life spotted either side of Plaza de Cagancha is that the people here are apparently obsessed with football stickers. Little tables are set up at spots along Avenida 18 de Julio with large boxes of stickers for the 2014 World Cup in Brazil. Queues of people formed to trade their swaps and fill gaps in their books, like so many schoolboys across the world. And there were men, women and children in these queues. ‘Soy celeste, soy celeste. Celeste soy yo’, as they will no doubt be singing this summer in support of their boys in sky blue.
Spending just one full day in Montevideo is enough to see the city, if not to experience it properly, and a trip to the region should be weighted more heavily in favour of Buenos Aires. It is certainly worth seeing, however, with its pretty squares and crumbling but characterful facades, and relaxed Uruguayans more than happy to welcome the unnecessarily wary traveller to their appealing city.
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